The Stampede Project Ultra-Pede
What happens when modifications to a Traxxas Stampede get a little out of hand?
The Stampede re-started my hole RC adventure again for me after almost a twenty year hiatus and then I end up at this point with over 40 RCs and counting - they should call the Stampede the Gateway Drug for RC. The advancements since I was a kid are incredible and they was just the beginning.
See the full Ultra-pede built below and all the crazy projects disbursed through out the site.
The Project Stampede Ultra-Pede Traxxas Stampede
Wow, this has been a fun transformation since December of 2003. In
The Project Stampede Ultra-Pede represents an absolute ton of testing, time and effort reaching for the magic combination of performance and hard core durability and continues to be tweaked on a weekly basis. My Project Stampede Ultra-Pede innovations include the best, most flexible, and easiest Wide-Pede conversion available, easy front and rear shock tower braces, dual front camber links or Jato camber links, super duty Traxxas Jato rear camber links as well as a host of other innovations, discoveries and upgrades. I believe, the Ultra-Pede to be one of the most
There are some truly great sites out there for upgrading the Traxxas Stampede - for example Ultimate RC focuses on racing performance and MisBehavin RC focuses on the how to basic maintenance. My focus with building the Ultra-Pede and this site is on using low cost modifications to deliver an almost indestructible bashing platform for the average RC nerd - namely me. I have made an attempt (though not always possible) to use Traxxas stock parts or at least widely available parts for all my modifications - I believe Traxxas parts to be some of the best in the RC industry, so why use something else unless you have to. Some of the modifications may require some skill, ingenuity, creativity, and craftsmanship but most should be fairly simple and straight forward.
What is it with that beat to hell stock body?
Again, don't replace it until it breaks. And I kind of like it because, people are all like well it doesn't have a decent body so it can't possible go fast. Then I run them over and blow by. Actually, the Mili-Pede and Snow-Pede bodies were run for quite a while and still are when hard bashing is at hand. So I have kind of "saved" the stock body a lot of wear and tear. Under normal circumstances, there is now way it would not have lasted this long. I have strengthened the body by gluing is body supports and trimmed off some damage at the rear. Although above is my recent Baja-Pede body made out of a mini-plastic paint tray from Lowes for under $2 and is the best body I have ever had for the Stampede.
In my mind there are only a handful of preventative upgrades that your should absolutely make right away. However, everyone wants to do all the upgrades right away. I think NOT taking the time to do some real long-term testing (5-10 bashing sessions minimum) and see how each upgrade affects your vehicle is a bad idea for several reasons:
You learn more by seeing how each component/upgrade added changes the behavior of the vehicle. If you do a bunch of upgrades at once you may misinterpret which upgrade made the
car perform better/worse. This is how the pros upgrade, that way they can problem shoot why the vehicle is not performing as expected or tune for certain conditions.
As you get into the hobby you will find that some of your most enjoyable hobby moments will be planning, looking forward to, performing, and testing the upgrades.
Don't get in a hurry to spend money. This hobby can get really, really expensive fast, so take your time and enjoy each upgrade.
No matter what parts, pieces, and upgrades you have planned in your head as the ultimate RC car, you may change your mind later after some of the upgrades start to increase the performance, looks, and durability of the RC race and talk with others who actually have some hobby experience. You may find that you really don't need some of the upgrades you thought you had to have (yeah!! - extra money for motors)
If you make all the upgrades at once, I think you are missing the whole point of "a hobby"...it should be a long-term thing.
If you don't have time for testing each upgrade, you probably don't have time for this hobby and probably won't enjoy it for very long.
So You Want to Build a Project Stampede Ultra-Pede? Here is the parts listmore or less
Recommended Upgrades - Now you can mix this up as much as you want, but here is what I am recommending to limit damage/expense and maximize fun. The order is how I would do things now if I were to do it again. I have broken each "phase" into approximately $20-$30 for each phase (some less some more). See more about each of these in the various Project & Hop-ups Categories throughout this site - cost are estimates only
Phase 1 - Bone Stock - Let the expenditures begin.
Pre-First Run - Something to do while the batteries are charging.
RPM Bumper - $5 (a must have item, if you buy nothing else, buy this)
Shock Pre-load spacers - $0-5 for parts (8mm rear - 4mm front install them there are in the parts bag) remember big spacer for jumps and bashing, little or no spacers for increased handling and increased articulation and less flipping during turns.
Easy-Pull body clips - $0-5 for parts (stops you from going insane)
Easy Off Gear Cover - I wish I would have done this so much earlier. Ohh, the agony.
Supercharge that Stocker - $0-5 for parts (just like it says)
Routine Maintenance Checklist - $0-5 for parts (do this every single time you use the RC)
Washer backed motor mount - $0-5 for parts
Make it easy, measure you antenna length and write it with a permanent marker on the receiver or better yet on a piece of paper and put it inside the receiver. That way if you shear off an antenna, you can just cut a new one and re-attach it. You will thank me later.
Phase 2 - Wow, goes pretty fast and I hit lots of stuff - hard.
Traxxas Aluminum Shock Caps - $10 (Once on - never had a problem)
Shock Strengthening - Add two Silicon O rings per shock to gently limit shock over travel - $0-5 for parts (insurance against breakage)
50 wt shock oil - $5 (stiffens up the shocks)
RPM 2 Stage Shock Piston - Kind of a pain to install but so worth it (go with Medium with the 50Wt Oil)
Custom transmission and motor cover - $0-5 for ABS hobby Plastic (insurance against breakage)
Waterproofing receiver, servo - $0 (insurance against breakage) See lubrication made easy
Also see Snow proofing your car - RCCARACTION.com
Dubro Body Clip Retainers - Genius pure genius - no more lost clips.
Phase 3 - Starting to understand the Stampede is durable but not indestructible.
RPM Gear Cover - $5 (insurance against breakage)
Broke servo gear with a bad hit - Stock servo gear replaced with Futaba FS-3003 gears - $5 (cheaper than a new servo) - if you haven't broke it yet, you will, buy them now.
Easy-Pull battery strap - $0-5 for parts (stops you from going insane)
Floppy Antenna Fix with shrink wrap or electrical tape - $0 (Fixes an annoyance and protects antenna)
Custom receiver holder and easy pull battery holder. - $0
Phase 4 - Improving on stock.
Aired Tires - $0 (better performance & traction)
Custom cut stock tires - $0 (poor mans Masher 2000)
CA Glue tires/rims - $5 (better traction - less tire to rim spin under torque)
Railing Tie Downs - $0 (Neaten and clean up all loose wiring)
Adjustable front camber links - $10 (corrects camber alignment issues)
Phase 5 - Spin me right round baby, right round! - (if you don't get that you are too young)
RPM 5X11 Bearing carriers and stainless steel sealed bearings - $30 (more spin)
Sticky hub fix - $0 (more spin for free)
Phase 6 - Working on the junk in the trunk.
Various Pinion/Spur gears - $25
Differential Repack with heavy grease - $2 (like a limited slip differential.)
Converted pivot screw on rear shock to a pivot ball - performance and durability
Jato Rear camber link - performance and durability
Phase 7 - Tumble tumble tumble, crack, gggriiiiinnnnnnndddddd! - check please!
Nitro Rustler Front Shock Tower - if you see one BUY IT - They are rare.
Traxxas aluminum idler gear - you Will break the plastic idler, everyone does, but will probably never have another transmission problem after replacing the idler gear with aluminum.
Phase 8 - Danger High Voltage!
All power connectors upgraded to Deans Plugs - $20 (More Power!)
All power wires upgraded to Deans 10 Gauge Wire - $5 (More Power!)
Project Stampede XL-1 ESC upgrade if you are up for it - $0-5 for parts (More Power!)
Shortened Servo lead - $0 (this just annoyed my why do I need 12" of wire to go 1".)
Phase 9 - Did you smell rubber burning?
Trinity Pro-Amber 17T Motor - $39 (More Power!)
Reedy Pro-Ball bearing SV2 everything from the stock to the 15T I have heard are excellent.
Phase 10 - So if a 17 Turn motor will make me go that fast how fast will..., I need a new ESC.
New ESC Novac - Rooster - Love it, but discontinued consider the XL-10 from Traxxas.
Another option is the new XL-10 (10 Turn motor limit) ESC. - $75.00
This is the point where considering and purchasing a re-furbished $160-$170 SS5800 brushless ESC and Motor System from Novak is a very good idea and much cheaper in the long run. A Castle Creations Mamba Max or Novak GTB Velociti system are also high on my recommendation list. Seems like a lot up front but consider you will have $70-80 in a new ESC and another $30-$40 in a decent new brushed motor. Once you go brushless you will never have to do motor maintenance again.
Phase 11 - Widening the Stance with the Ultra-Pede Wide-Pede Conversion.
Project Stampede Ultra-Pede Wide-pede conversion - performance
Project Stampede Front and Rear Shock Braces - performance and durability
Jato Front Camber links
Traxxas Nitro Rustler Rear 5 spoke wheels - performance and durability
Proline - Moab tires (like better than Mashers 2000) - performance and durability
RPM Lower shock cups - Longer, deeper, and stronger than stock - less likely to break or pop off.
Phase 12 - ...then how fast will a 15 Turn motor make me go?
If you haven't gone brushless by now a Trinity 15 turn Titanite Motor is a good choice(More Power!)
Heatsink for motor
Custom lightened chassis - $0 (Shaved weight but it took time and patience)
Lowered/Shaved body mounts to lower body. - $0 (Dremel-ed them down for a lower look)
Phase 13 - ...then how fast will a 13 Turn motor make me go?
Go brushless, more power See this
Suspension Kingpin e-clip upgrade (insurance against breakage)
Below is my personal history of upgrades (more or less).
My Project Stampede Ultra-Pede Upgrades - cost are estimates only
Pre-First Run
RPM Bumper - $5 (a must have item, if you buy nothing else, buy this)
Traxxas Aluminum Shock Caps - $10 (Once on - never had a problem)
Shock Strengthening - Added two Silicon O rings per shock as shock limiters - $0-5 for parts (insurance against breakage)
50 wt shock oil - $5 (stiffens up the shocks)
Shock Pre-load spacers - $0-5 for parts (8mm rear - 4mm front)
Easy-Pull body clips - $0-5 for parts (stops you from going insane)
Supercharge that Stocker - $0-5 for parts (just like it says)
Maintenance Checklist - $0-5 for parts
Washer backed motor mount - $0-5 for parts
Additional Upgrades/Accessories to Date
RPM Gear Cover - $5 (insurance against breakage)
All power connectors upgraded to Deans Plugs - $20 (More Power!)
All power wires upgraded to Deans 10 Gauge Wire - $5 (More Power!)
Stock servo gear replaced with Futaba FS-3003 gears - $5 (cheaper than a new servo)
Trinity Pro-Amber 17T Motor - $39 (More Power!)
Various Pinion/Spur gears - $25
Project Stampede XL-1 ESC upgrade - $0-5 for parts (More Power!)
Easy-Pull battery strap - $0-5 for parts (stops you from going insane)
Waterproofing ESC, receiver, servo - $0 (insurance against breakage)
Railing Tie Downs - $0 (Neaten and clean up all loose wiring)
Adjustable front camber links - $10 (corrects camber alignment issues)
Custom cut stock tires - $0 (poor mans Masher 2000)
Pro-Line Sand Paws - $15 (Snow traction)
Pro-Line Dirt Paw Knobby Tires - $15 (good as fronts in snow and on F/R in loose dirt)
Floppy Antenna Fix - $0 (Fixes and annoyance)
Aired Tires - $0 (better performance & traction)
RPM 5X11 Bearing carriers and stainless steel sealed bearings - $30 (more spin)
Sticky hub fix - $0 (more spin for free)
Custom transmission and motor cover - $0 (insurance against breakage)
Project Stampede Bodies - $0-10 for parts (just for fun)
CA Glue tires/rims - $5 (better traction - less tire to rim spin under torque)
Differential Repack with heavy grease - $2 (like a limited slip differential.)
Trinity 15 turn Titanite Motor (More Power!)
Custom lightened chassis - $0 (Shaved weight but it took time and patience)
Custom Lexan front shock tower - (buy the Rustler Nitro Shock Tower instead)
Custom receiver holder and easy pull battery holder. - $0
Shortened Servo lead - $0 (this just annoyed my why do I need 12" of wire to go 1".)
Shock limiters - $0 used shock O rings (prevents chassis bottoming and lengthens shock life)
Lowered/Shaved body mounts to lower body. - $0 (Dremel-ed them down for a lower look)
M'Troniks Sonik4 RV Max 8 Turn ESC - CRAPNovac - Rooster - Love it!
Nitro Rustler Front Shock Tower - if you see one BUY it the stock from shock tower is too weak in my opinion.
Traxxas aluminum idler gear.
Project Stampede Ultra-Pede Wide-pede conversion - performance
Traxxas Nitro 5 spoke wheels - performance and durability
Proline - Moab tires (like better than Mashers 2000) - performance and durability
Project Stampede Front and Rear Shock Braces - performance and durability
Jato Rear camber link - performance and durability
Dual Front Camber Links - performance and durability
Removed Shock limiters and added dual silicon piston rings on each shock shaft to gently limit shock over travel.
Converted pivot screw on rear shock to a pivot ball - performance and durability
RPM Lower shock cups - Longer, deeper, and stronger than stock - less likely to break or pop off.
Replaced all shock, camber and motor screws with stainless steel machine hex screws.
Removed Dual Front Camber links and went to a single set of 58mm Jato camber links like the rears.
New servo saver
Replaced rear body mount with a modified rear Rustler body mount.
Used long washer head screws in Rustler body mount kit and swapped out the grub screws and nuts on the front shock tower for the lighter washer head screw.
Proline Dirt Paw tires with new Traxxas Nitro 5 spoke wheels - improved grip on grass and really soft dirt.
New set of 30 and 28 tooth pinions to go fast with the stinger motor - we'll see (didn't quite work)
Associated Heatsink to keep the motor cool even when over gearing - modified heat sink and body to fit.
Easy off Gear Cover mod - best thing I have done since the easy off battery strap.
RPM 2 Stage Shock Piston - Kind of a pain to install but so worth it (go with Medium with the 50Wt Oil)
Copied the Swami bar but in ABS. Works great.
I have lots and lots of batteries, I have Trinity's, IBs, Radio Shack GP3300s, PowerMax Pros, and a host of others.
TQ-3 Three channel Transmitter and Receiver
Conversion to all stainless steel machine screws
Rear axle replacement
Antenna replacement - see this and Misbehavin's site
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