Why FLM Fast Lane Machine is Awesome

Why FLM Fast Lane Machine is Awesome

As we all know, things break in RC, however we also know FLM has one of the best parts warranties in the business.

Over Labor Day, friends and friends kids came over with RCs in hand. Obviouslly the ramp went up and the parts started breaking. In a fluke hit, my own FLM Ultra-Pede III went down not with a broken FLM part, but with a 3mm bolt snapped off flush in the carrier.

I called FLM and had a no-charge replacement in hand (plus shipping) within a couple days. Awesome customer service Fast Lane.

StampedeProject.com Ultra-Pede III

Ultra-Pede III

Of course you can’t be StampedeProject.com without the most kick ass Stampede in existence.  This is my third Ultra-Pede build but this one is miles above anything previous.  The Ultra-Pede features a complete 1/8th scale sized Extended FLM Traxxas Stampede chassis with tweaked billet Revo shocks, billet links, an all steel drivetrain, Traxxas 2.4Ghz TX/RX, and Traxxas digital waterproof servo. 

I have a Hitec Titanium ultra-torque servo ready, but the Traxxas servo won’t die. The last two items are about the only thing “stock”.  The body is a nearly indestructable abnormally heavy 2mm thick Proline Crowd Pleaser body I found over the years. No 550 or 540 is not enough power.  

My Ultra-Pede is powered by a 4S feed Neu 1512-1Y ⅛ scale motor with a 32P pinion spur gearing that has more power than any other Stampede on the planet... it’s the most powerful motor you can fit with minimal modification on a Stampede.  

To keep the tires from flying off I used the Pro-Line Short Course 2.2” beadlocks with Fatirons or M2Ks. Totally insane, but it is, without a doubt, the most durable and powerful Ultra-Pede ever assembled.  

Losi Super 8

Losi Super 8

This originally was the RC Car magazine featured How-To brushless conversion of a Losi 8 that I did after the 2007 Ihobby show... Losi kept the other one I converted. It was powered by a 1512 Neu motor. I almost sold this recently because I just don’t run at the track any longer and the low clearance just didn’t run well in the grass around my place.

I kept this RC instead of a Duratrax ST - The Duratrax was an 1/8th scale buggy with truggy tires and was a huge blast, but parts replacement was an issue. Only in August of 2011 did I realize I could do the same with the Losi 8 and now it totally kicks ass after just adding some Pro-Line Truggy tires No wheel adapters/extensions needed and there is not tire rubbing.

On the next wheel replacement I will go for ½” offset wheels, just to give me a bit wider stance. The gearing required a smaller 12T pinion and an upgrade to a 1515-1Y Neu motor... with 4S it can power flip itself, handles like a dream, and is definitely a unique sci-fi looking RC with the Buggy body.

How to: Use a Stripper

How to: Use a Stripper
by Tony Arnold

After this How-To you will know how to use a stripper... such as Easy Off Oven Cleaner... ;) In this case we are going to show you how to strip some scratched and scraped anodizing that is looking more ghetto than gorgeous. We also know this year will be tight financially so any ideas that can bring new life to used and abused parts at little or no cost is worth a quick How-To article.

For this example, I wanted to do Axial a solid and manage one last article from some first generation AX10 crawler kit parts that were less than photogenic from way to much testing. I of course reached for an easy and cheap stripper to brighten the day... well at least a can of Easy Off Heavy Duty Original Formula. But first, why use a can-o-chemicals vs. sandpaper or steel wool? Frankly put, anything else takes forever and delivers poor results… believe me, I have tried. Yes other strippers will work, but nothing as effective - stick with the Original Easy Off Heavy Duty $3 can.

Here's how easy it was to get from un-publishable parts to stunning gorgeous:

1. Remove all plastic and other attached parts from the aluminum to be stripped.
2. I don't care what the can says... do this entire process outside or at least in the garage.
3. This should be an adult supervised activity. If you are an adult but extremely immature, you should ask for assistance.
4. Put on Safety glasses and rubber gloves - protection is always required when dealing with stripper.
5. Place parts in an old container or in my case a pizza pan that really needed cleaning with oven cleaner - two tasks in one.
6. Spray parts with Easy- Off
7. Jiggle the parts around a bit and re-spray - oooh fun, I always like jiggling.
8. Watch the anodizing magically disappear
9. Wait 5 minutes
10. Repeat 4-5
11. Wait 30 minutes
12. Rinse off parts and hand wash, because when dealing with a stripper you should always want to wash everything afterwards.
13. If some anodizing remains, repeat 4-12
14. Use your favorite metal/brass paste polish such as Flitz and put a shine on your newly restored parts with a couple old rags.
15. The more you polish the shinier the parts will get
16. Enjoy the bright and shiny result... all for only three singles. ;)

[IMG1.JPG]

[IMG2.JPG]

[IMG5.JPG]

[IMG4.JPG]