Saturday, November 7, 2009

Neumotor's SuperMassive Neumotor's Oversized SuperMassive 6700Kv 2000 Watt Brushless Motor

Neumotor's SuperMassive
Neumotor's Oversized SuperMassive 6700Kv 2000 Watt Brushless Motor

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Were some are just nuts over Nitro, I am completely besotted by brushless. In my quest for ultimate brushless dominance, I found Neumotors ("New Motors"). Along with powering more than a few boat world speed records holders, Neumotor has also powered the current RC Car record holder at somewhere North of 130MPH. What caught my eye was their brand new 2.8HP SuperMassive 6700Kv 2000 Watt motor... now this looks interesting.

Though Neumotor is well known in both boat and aircraft circles, they have never produced a "R/C Car" specific motor. The closest thing the company has to a R/C car motor is the 1.56" diameter 15XX Massive series motors. With a little beefier length and width than the industry standard 1.4" diameter 540/550 sized motor cans, you can now understand the name. The Massive name also applies to the a super high efficiency design, which delivers nearly double the power (wattage) of other competing motors. All Neumotors feature maintenance-free lifetime sealed bearings, high torque 4-pole magnet design, 60,000 maximum RPM, industry leading 85+% efficiency, a standardized 4 bolt motor mount pattern, high current motor leads, and solid milled aluminum body design. Neumotors' intent is to eventually release R/C car focused motors, but for now Neumotor should be considered an advanced custom upgrade. Need a special winding, high current gold banana connectors, or in my case a 3.2mm (1/8") pinion shaft instead of 5mm? Yep you can go completely nerdy here and Neumotor will build your motor exactly how you want completely by hand.

A problem picking a motor was that there are a ton of options in every series, but Steven at Diversity Model Aircraft (the sole distributor) worked through specs to find a solution to my application. In my case I wanted to use my Mamba Max sensorless brushless ESC to deliver both stupid speeds and moronic power all without running tons of cells. The solutions was the 2000 watt, 200 AMP, SuperMassive 6700Kv (aka the 1509/1D/3.2) measuring 1.56" W X 2.1" L.

The downsides to this beast of a motor are that it is not plug and play, has somewhat confusing airplane focused installation instructions, perforated can ends that must be covered to prevent dirt from entering the motor, and heavy duty 8 gauge soldered wire motor leads which are painful to connect to. The size itself could also present some challenges with mounting, but fit like a glove on my Traxxas Bandit with room to still allow a pretty broad gearing range. The SuperMassive comes without a notched pinion shaft, but I experienced no slippage even under very heavy loads.

The upsides are that the 2.8 horsepower Neumotor SuperMassive 6700Kv is the most powerful high Kv motor which fits into most small 10th scale R/C's with twice the power output of Castle's CMS36 motors, or any of Novak's motors including the HV series, or ... well you get the idea. Efficiency is about the same as Hacker's C40 motors, but the SuperMassive still delivers a higher Kv and a third more power - i.e. it will be faster with less input. To make connections to the Mamba Max ESC simple and easy, 4mm male banana connector tipped motor extensions were attached to the motor leads. Sensorless motors have no particular wire order, if the motor runs in reverse, switch two of the leads. The can holes were sealed with clear packaging tape to keep the motor running clean. Due to the power hungry 4-pole motor design, starts were rough when geared for warp speeds, but tweaking settings on the Mamba Max smoothed things out a little. Observing the 60K motor RPM limit I stuck with my trusty 6 & 8-cell GP3300 high current side-by-side packs for testing.

Let's contemplate that 2000 Watt figure - that's almost four times a Novak High Voltage Brushless 6.5 Maxx focused motor and the 200 AMP limit matches the max output of the Mamba Max! It's like putting a Hemi in a go-cart. The performance of this 2000 watt motor will make your jaw drop and is simply stunning. With stock geared the Bandit wheelied at any speed. Can you say torque flip. As a bashing setup the motor produces comical amounts of torque which shredded the Bandit's plastic idler gear in mili-seconds and required an immediate aluminum Idler gear upgrade. With the Traxxas 31T speed pinion installed and running 6-cells, I witness 52.3MPH. With 8-cells the SuperMassive delivered 62.5MPH and was power wheelieing at about 30 MPH. Why does anyone need more power than any normal brushless system? No idea, I am still giggling. I can now terrify both myself and any other R/C short of a 3.3 Jato with with 60+MPH speeds on just 8-cells and a near stock Traxxas Bandit - don't forget the RPM bumper. With an extra cell or a 3S LiPo pack, beating a 3.3 Jato is a very careful trigger pull away.

WHAT DID WE LIKE?
Torque, torque, and more torque, what's not to like. On just 6-cells, the 6700Kv SuperMassive kicked out insane amounts of power that rocketed an almost stock Bandit to illegal speeds that would make any Nitro R/C envious. The super high motor efficiency, extended run times to well over 10 minutes when geared normally. At 6700Kv, 60,000 RPM, and 2000 Watts, there is nothing else like this motor from any any brushless motor manufacturer.

WHAT WOULD WE CHANGE?
With a sticker price of $225, the NeuMotors SuperMassive isn't cheap but in the higher end class of brushless motors such as Hacker and Lehner, the Neumotor offers specs beyond their offerings at around the same price. Although the high current 8 gauge stumps are appreciated from a current perspective, solder tabs such as those on new Novak motors and non-perforated end bells would be greatly appreciated. Smoothing the motor out at starts and low speed with high gearing is tricky. Please make this ROAR approved - we need more 360 degree torque flips in races.

CONCLUSION
Even with the shortcomings and the $225 price the Neumotors SuperMassive motor gives us a peak at how good brushless technology has become and delivers huge speeds, enormous torque, at impressive efficiency that justifies the price and install hurdles of this high efficiency 2000 watt 6700Kv motor. If you want ultimate nitro destroying power, are willing to pay for it and can put up with a few installation inconveniences, the Neumotor SuperMassive stands alone in a big way.

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ON THE OTHER HAND

Neumotors are not for the neophyte, but out on here on the benchmark defining fringe where efficiency, power, torque, and speed take on a different meanings, Neumotors are simply the finest brushless motors currently available but are the price of an entire system. Taking this motor to the max and upgrading the Bandit with RPM 5x11 carriers and bearings would easily deliver 70MPH speeds. When geared normally the acceleration is like nothing you have experienced.
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THE FINAL CALL
Highs - Any complaints are immediately forgotten once you pull the trigger. Great fun at track day - kinda get looks like your R/C is powered by alien technology.
Lows - Not for the brushless beginner. Open can design, painful attachment to stumpy motor leads, one size "may" fit all, and rough starts. ROAR approved? [Insert laughter]

SPECS Type: Sensorless Brushless Motor: $225 Class Rivals: Hacker & Lehner
SOURCES: Neumotor sales contact Diversity Model Aircraft www.FlyDMA.com Phone 858-693-8188

Monday, September 7, 2009

Thunder Tiger EB4 S3 RTR 1/8 Scale Buggy

Thunder Tiger EB4 S3 RTR 1/8 Scale Buggy

So I ended up with the Thunder Tiger EB4 S3 RTR 1/8 scale buggy from RC Car magazine as a "feel the love gift" for some articles I did. Honestly I don't think anyone else wanted it, but hey don't look a gift horse in the mouth.

The RC Car review blasted the buggy for a ton of things of which I can say were all true. As brutal of a review as that was they were being kind. The Thunder Tiger EB4 S2 is pretty much a giant piece of junk that at even at $300 it's overpriced. The motor and RX/TX are good, but everything else is really scraping the bottom of the barrel with quality.

This looks pretty much part for part like my Yusa. The bad news and very sad part is that the Yusa is a much higher quality build and I only paid $79.99 each for those. The EB4 doesn't even have sway bars, or adjustment nuts on the links and has fixed tension on the servo saver. The chassis braces are all plastic not metal like my Yusa. It's like Thunder Tiger took a decent cheap roller chassis and then stripped it of everything good.

With one way grub screws as links and without dual threaded adjustment nuts on any links the Thunder Tiger it was/is a nightmare to tune, so much so that at a point RC Car kind of just gave up on trying to tune the thing. It is tunable, however it's a pain and the factory settings are just stupid. Why Thunder Tiger didn't just have one of their factory drivers set one up and just copy that setting on the production units baffles me. I would say unless you are desperate, strapped for cash, and have an "anything will do just get me a buggy" mental moment, the Thunder Tiger is a poor choice. Honestly I am not really sure what Thunder Tiger was thinking since they make such solid motors. On that the motor is a tank and assuming you do take the pain and weather the agony to tune the S3 it will run and run and run and will probably outlive the chassis.

I did a partial tear down side by side with one of my Yusa rollers. The problem as I see it is that other than the aluminum front hubs everything else would be a downgrade if I started moving parts to the Yusa.

FYI - RC Car flogs their test vehicles viscously - none of that snap a pic and write and article garbage that apparently occurs in other magazines. The Thunder Tiger unit they sent over had a bent deck, front shock tower, caster link, both front shock shafts were bent and the tires were bald. I of course straightened everything out and will simply just flog this thing until something breaks.

No bad for free, $200 maybe, but I wouldn't waste my money on it at $300-400 retail.

THE REAL STORY

Ode to Burnout
The Nitro Therapy Buggy

Since my first article with RC Car magazine the beginning of 2007, they have kept me busy... very busy. In fact in the last couple months I have had just enough time to complete article specific RC projects. My list of project ideas, parts, and targeted RCs continues to grow, however my "just for fun" RC time seemingly vanished. I love RC, writing, testing, and creating, however lately it felt like work and that's a very bad thing indeed - I was burnt out.

The un-intended solution came in a two-phased format. The first part of a solution was an agreement made with my wife. If we went to iHobby, no RC hobby work for two weeks. In light of my current state of mind that wasn't tough to agree to. I also asked Stephen (the editor of RC Car magazine) if I could skip a month and pick up in December. The break was really nice.

Sensing I was on the verge of being RC'ed out, Stephen fired over the Thunder Tiger ED4 PRO RTR Nitro 1/8 scale buggy at the end of my second RC free week. If you know me at all you know that I am a brushless guy, and generally consider Nitro to be a giant pain in the ... well you get the idea. Secondly, if you read the scathing Thunder Tiger EB4 review, you know there are a number of things that make the EB4 kinda suck. The used, abused and tested EB4 was even worse as delivered. Both front shock shafts and the front shock tower were bent, the deck was actually torque twisted (presumably from the same wreck) and the speed of the steering servo made you want to throw the whole RC through a wall. Even after straightening out all the bent parts and replacing the bald tires, the Thunder Tiger was definitely in the beater category of RCs with little hope of a return to perfection. Give me a break it doesn't even have a body. Stephen knew that, and knew that this was what we term a therapy car. A therapy car is one you have no emotional attachment to, in fact, you kind of hate it. It generally starts perfectly, goes mildly fast, and begs you to break something. This is the type of car you would attempt to jump your house with.

I don't like nitro, I really don't. Its loud, dirty, inefficient, takes 5 minutes to warm up, and another 5 to tune, and yet another 5 minutes of pulling the glow plug and adding a drop of oil in the cylinder after you are done... and let's not even get into cleaning the air filter. However, I must admit, it you are going to take out your frustrations and get a little therapy, all of the above is the perfect solution. Loud, dirty and painful is how I like to let it all out and screaming full throttle with a stinky cloud following was just what I needed.

I used the Thunder Tiger for a snowmobile on the hard packed snow for a cold but tolerable couple weeks of a Nebraska winter. Ridden hard and left wet comes to mind and a testament the Thunder Tiger motor, it started every time.

After about a month of beating the heck out of the Thunder Tiger, I Ebay'ed the POS... yeah it was that bad, but it did sell quick. ;)

Monday, June 8, 2009

Builds

I have just been working on a ton of stuff lately. Tekno Brushless Revo, Hard Case (hard tail) crawler and an SCX10 Axial build. Fun fun

Saturday, May 23, 2009

Got the SCX10 Chassis built up and it's looking cool.

Saddleback Leather Messenger - Quest for "The Ultimate Wine Bag"


Imgp5956.jpg (1051321 bytes)Saddleback Leather Messenger Bag
Q
uest for "The Ultimate Wine Bag"
by Tony Arnold

As the husband of a certified sommelier, I am the designated wine pack mule for lugging wine to more dinner parties, events, and restaurant outings, than I care to remember. My marital task drove me on a two-year quest for a better wine bag and littered my basement with dozens of bags in all shapes, sizes, and styles. Until recently all the bags failed me in one or several areas of function, durability, capacity, style or utility, however the search is finally over for the "ultimate wine bag".

Over the last two years, I made some observations about all the bags I tested. Functionally, I looked for a bag to safely and comfortably carry the magic three bottles of wine. Duffle bags had the capacity, but I broke at least two bottles from bottles tossing around inside and a duffle is not the most stylish of things.

The three bottle capacity out'ed more than a few stylish briefcases and the combined requirements of durability and style made me pass on anything synthetic or trendy. Messenger and computer bags held the wine, were durable and offered daily briefcase andImgp5946.jpg (557893 bytes) computer lugging utility outside of wine toting, but lacked a timeless style and made me look like a middle-aged graduate student.

Hours of web surfing netted bag salvation in the form of a classically styled leather messenger from Saddleback Leather (www.SaddlebackLeather.com). Saddleback focuses on classic legacy quality leather suitcases, briefcases, and messenger bag designs with a promoted slogan of "they'll fight over it when you are dead". Saddleback's classic styles remind me of a time long gone when bags were functionally built tough to last generations instead of months with the ability to show daily wear and tear as beauty marks of pride instead of scars.

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Given my growing "Imelda Marcos" type bag collection, I thought why not and picked up the Saddleback Messenger bag. In an era of marketing hype, the Saddleback Messenger bag surpassed my highest expectations. Not only did it hold three wine bottles perfectly, but it was the epitome of durability. The bags are made from 1/8" thick full grain leather, thick industrial thread, and has no zippers or snaps to break - imagine a messenger bag made to Harley Davidson leather specifications and you get the idea. That type of quality is notImgp5953.jpg (486896 bytes) inexpensive. Saddleback's Messenger is priced at $350, which is just under upper tier'ed leather competitors such as Cole Haan, Coach and Hartmann. The difference is that Saddleback delivers a different type of product, where Coach and Cole Hahn deliver more of a purse quality feel and Hartmann more of a luggage style, Saddleback has a feel of classic brutal durability. When you are hauling around $1000+ worth of wine, the security of knowing the bag will not fail is the most important feature, but this messenger bag has style as well.

The 14"x 12 3/4"x 4" pictured bag has now endured almost a year of torture and still looks great, hasn't lost a thread, split a seam, or popped a rivet. It has survived being tossed & thrown, dropped, an attempted tug-a-war theft, daily commutes and numerous cross-country trips. It has hauled untold amounts of wine, pulled daily duty as a laptop case and even used as a food transport cooler - slip a 9x9 panned gratin into the messenger and it will be piping hot at the party. The Saddleback leather messenger has become myImgp5959.jpg (649586 bytes) Leatherman multitool of bags and even has room for said tool, wine key, and pens in the internal dual pockets. On the exterior, a couple exterior pockets are perfect for sunglasses and electronics and rear stash folder pocket is handy for my earplugs, iTouch, and blackberry or when I am just too lazy to open the bag. The Backpack conversion feature is especially handy just as you realize you are late for your connecting flight... at the other end of the terminal and need to dash. Sometimes perfection is simple, handmade craftsmanship, full grain leather, and a size that is perfect - I think I have found bag'utopia. The Saddleback Messenger is so good you don't have to wait until I'm dead, I'll fight you for it now.

Sources - www.SaddlebackLeather.com - Saddleback Leather Messenger Bag

Monday, May 18, 2009

Review & Test of the New 2006 Traxxas XL-5 Stampede, XL-5 Rustler, and XL-5 Bandit

Street Price as tested about $170 each.

Initially when I first wrote this I begged for the opportunity to evaluate some test units from Traxxas, so I had to steal some test time with friends' new XL-5 rigs, but since then I have gotten my hands on both of these models and also the new Bandit as I reviewed in the July 2007 issue of RC Car Magazine. Done full tear downs, and detailed inspections.

The Initial Gut Review - Style Points
Although not new from the ground up, Traxxas has done a great job of bringing some cool to the party with these newly updated entry level R/Cs. To barrow a phase from Paris Hilton, the first time I looked at the pair I though "That's Hot". Traxxas definitely hit all my urban redneck buttons on this redo with the style update. Both just look fast even standing still - that is if have the willpower to just let them sit there.

Although a skeptic of the new gray chassis material, it does look a lot better in person than the old black. I noticed in our little test that gray also doesn't show the dirt like the black chassis did, so that is a plus as well. I think my wife also told me gray was the new black... must be the reason for the color switch. At any rate, it looks good and I am thinking that gray plastic will look much better imbedding in my arms and forehead as it spins in a molten state from my Dremel when the chassis modifications begin. The arms and various other parts stay the same basic black.

The wheels and tires are just too cool. Yes gone are the redneck cowboy 1990'ish hard as plastic "when the heck are these going to actually wear out so I can buy good tires." In are some Jato inspired low profile style tires with stickier compound and an actual usable tread pattern. Oversized rims retain standard overall tire dimensions all while performing better and providing that slammed look unlike any stock tire/wheel combo available.

IMGP1512.JPG (2601987 bytes)Both bodies have a little more up-to-date graphics than the 90's Lexan cover shells of old with groovy 90s paint themes. Sorry same actual bodies from last run including the super outdated Bandit body, just different graphics. Frankly I never really warmed up to the old Rustler body why O why didn't they use the Jato body for the new Rustler I will never know. But I may be the only one in the crowd with that look on my face over the Rusty's body, most people think it's great and from Traxxas' perspective it sells well too, so what do I know. Although still not favorite body, the new Rustler adds some sharp graphic looks on it's new body - love the silver accents. Between the two, the new Stampede body graphics won the big style points and the cool award, with the Rustler being tastefully updated at least into this decade with a screaming loud color scheme that puts it on top of the ready-to-run stadium truck heap among it's competition.

Again thinking that Paris Hilton phase, the ESC looks like a mini nuclear fusion reactor dressed in yellow. Personally I love it. An ESC with style, leave it to Traxxas to bring it with a little of "the my ESC is better than yours and mine is stock" look with technical specs to back it up. I would image there will be a lot of these little buggers sold as upgrade ESCs for the vintage electrics still out there in circulation. Way to go Traxxas.

The Titan, is not much in the way of looks, stainless can with a torque sleeve and sticker applied, but it sure does look beefy. And perceptively bigger than the old Stinger.

The gray shocks I could take or leave. My initial impression is that they are attempting to make you think they are aluminum. After a second look I would imagine that the new material color combo was simply used for major components (chassis to shocks) and as a result the shocks were also gray like the chassis. Sure, whatever, my R/Cs tends to spend more time in use than as art work, so as long as they work, (they should work even better now with improved seals), I am a happy camper. Others in the market are offering adjustable camber links, bearings, and adjustable shocks at this price so Traxxas better start to step up a little with the amenities.

The new transmitter gun includes updated graphics, but other than that it seems and feels like the same old reliable transmitter that has been wedged in my hand over the last couple of years. No complaints last time, none now.

The Want List - Give it to me Now!
Like the little brat in Willy Wonka, we all want it all and we all want it now, whether actually feasible or financially do-able. Let's take a look as the top requests for the new Rustler and Stampede and what everyone was hoping for and see whether Traxxas delivered.

More Power & Speed
Did Traxxas deliver? Yes, definitely with a new XL-5 ESC with low turn limit and a huge fan cooled torquey 550 sized 12 turn motor.

The real answer is that it depends on you RC experience. If this is one of the first R/Cs you have purchased or are even a seasoned RC'er, you are going to be mighty impressed with the power that Traxxas has dropped in these new ready-to-race models. There is a ton of torque and both models supply some pretty incredible speed compared to anything else on the market for the same price or less.

Luckily, if you are just starting out or have a "less experienced" driver taking the wheel, such as your father, son, daughter, or best friend's kid, Traxxas' new XL-5 has a "Training Mode" that comes to the rescue preventing damage from the less experienced drivers. It does this all while allowing you to be the generous person people know you are, remember it's nice to share your toys but it's also great that your toys not get trashed in the process. Never fear. This handy training mode cuts the power by 50% of the battery's power and also doubles the run time - very nice. Crashes are thus taken down to a breakage limiting speed of about 10-15 MPH. The new XL-5 also features a "Sport Mode" (Forward / Brake / Reverse) for normal use and "Race Mode" - (Forward / Brake) for track runs, 12-Turn motor limit for high torque low current 550 size motors,15-Turn motor limit for standard 540 size motors, Integrated push button on/off switch, Traxxas EZ-Set one-button setup, Large heat sink for cooler running, and high-efficiency MOSFET transistors for lots of power. Another benefit is that the XL-5 is bolted (yes not taped) to the chassis. So no more of your ESC flopping about during nasty tip/flip overs.

Yes, we were able to get the Stampede to wheelie. The Rustler? Nope, sorry, not going to happen not unless you plug in more than 6 cells, it wants to but lofting the wheel on command is not in the cards. Wheelie test aside, the acceleration and torque was outstanding and more than expected.

An oversized "speed pinion" is even included for use on smooth road surfaces, however it should be noted that it didn't work the best in grass and rough off road surfaces. The "speed pinion" is for on road high speed endeavors and not intended for off road use. Personally I would never use the bigger pinion more than a couple times, but nice it was included. According to our handy GPS we saw speeds in excess of 45 MPH for both vehicles with some 8 cell GP3300 battery packs. Although my buddies are all excited about the ability to use 6-8 cell packs, I was happy that both models performed well with industry standard 6 cell packs as I am just a 6 cell kind of guy and unless it involves stacking 6 cell packs, I have never really liked the trouble and expense that come with higher cell count packs.

The other part of the answer is that if you are a crazy as hell RC modifier, such as yours truly, you are not going to get brushless level performance from the new XL-5/motor combo. You will get a level of performance that is darn close to a Trinity Speed Gem 14-15 turn motor - very good, outstanding in fact, better than anything else out there good, just don't expect brushless level performance. The combo will blow away almost everything else out there with a nice 8 cell set of charged batteries from the entry to mid level electric R/Cs category and quite a few of the vintage nitro R/Cs. At 30MPH'ish you have something that can really move and considering the customer target of the Stampede and Rustler, this is as fast as most of the entry and re-entry level folks can handle without making parts replacement a job instead of a hobby.

The motor although more menacing looking than the old finger blistering Stinger motor and certainly a HUGE upgrade, it still looks cheap compared to... well any other motor. Both my buddies had already performed my old Stampede Project "remove the sticker and brush with a ScotchBrite pad" mod to bump up the bling factor of the motors which now looked pretty sharp. Thankfully the new Titan is not the heater the old Stinger was and runs at about the some temperature as any standard aftermarket motor. I think a lot of this is due to the fact that both the motor and ESC are now designed to handle the power of the newer battery packs everyone is now using. Back at the introduction of the old XL-1 and Stinger, 1500Mh packs were the best available and NiCad were still all the rage. Today we have 4400Mh pack that delivery 30 Amps per cell and now we have a stock motor and ESC designed to handle that power and delivery it to the ground efficiently.

Better Tires
Did Traxxas deliver? Yes. As mentioned in the "Initial Gut Review", the Jato inspired tires have style a plenty and in my opinion are simply way cooler than any other rollers I have seen on an RC coming
directly out of a stock box. The Stampede tires are now a modified terra pattern with a lot of extra pattern, looks cool works great. The Rustler's new skins feature the some style of track oriented tires as the last version but with significant overall grip and design changes that equate to much more aggressive tires. Nice job Traxxas - very impressive.

The tires are also loads grippier than their predecessors. Are they Proline level grippy? I think so close you probably won't notice and so cool looking you will probably replace them with the same stock units once they wear out. Although my buddies' RCs were only a couple days old, the tires were starting to show the type of wear I see from my Proline tires, the type of wear you should see from good tires after a week of hard use. This is a good thing and means these tires are doing their job. Unlike the old terra style (Stampede) and pin and rib (Rustler) versions, the new tires will wear much quicker than the vintage versions' mega-hard compound. But that is fine with me, I would rather have a tire that grips and wears than one that makes the car irritating and hard to drive which to old version did.

The Jato inspired tires really are pretty good all around performers and provide a good combination of on and off road traction and cornering performance. Traxxas also promises the tires to limit tire ballooning during terminal velocity speeds. Like any good racer will tell you tuning your tires to the track is 90% of the tuning battle so you may still need a couple various sets of tires for the track, but these new stockers should get you through your first couple of track sessions without worry and may perform better than a less than optimal aftermarket tire on the track. Again I am betting lots of vintage rigs get upgraded to this new stock Traxxas part that proved great all around performers.

Better Servo
Did Traxxas deliver? Yes, the good old heavy duty 2055 is now the resident servo for both the Rustler and
Stampede. This dependable high torque servo has some more durable internals and more power that the 2018 of old, which is exactly what both of these tough R/Cs require.

Although later upgraded in the later Stampede releases to the 2055, the older 2018 servos simple didn't have the might to get the job done in the steering department on the old Stampede and Rustler models. As a result this was a pretty big complaint from owners as steering response was greatly hindered due to the lack of servo power. The reliability of the 2018 never seemed to wear out as long as you don't mind a gear replacement here and there, as an example after 3 years of service my old 2018 servo has taken up residence in the Tri-Pede as it's steering servo. The 2055 has proven itself over the years to be even more durable and is much less prone to gear breakage. The 2055 was and is a much better choice and is up to the task of making both units change direction with authority. Sure a super high torque metal gear servo would have been nice but not necessary in for this application. The 2055 is the same servo I have in all my Traxxas rigs and is great servo for the job and takes crazy amounts of abuse.

Improved Motor Mount
Did Traxxas deliver? Yes and no. Through a simple upgrade to wider washer head screws, a portion of this frustrating problem has been eliminated. No longer will your motor mount screws burrow deeply into the motor mount when you snug up and adjust the motor. No longer will these mini-caverns make it all but impossible to properly adjust your pinion/spur gap. And no longer will you have to fuss over the washers you used under each motor mount screw to prevent this issue. The wider washer head screws work.

The down side is that these new fangled wide washer head screws are still Phillips head screws and the heads will eventually still strip although it may now take a little longer. Why hex head machine screws were not used for this application is beyond me, but I would eventually end up going back to machine screws with washers to assure a nice tight worry free motor-to-motor mount union.

Improved Slipper
Did Traxxas deliver? Yes
, in a big way.

Although once upgraded from slipper pegs to differential balls, I have had zero problems with any of my vintage rigs. That said, the new and improved Revo inspired slipper clutch should be a better all around performer right out of the box and a whole lot easier to tune. The foreseeable downside is that now we can ONLY use Traxxas spur gears and can't grab whatever X brand is available to fix a broken spur. All be it probably less prone to breakage, I will also bet that those Revo inspired spur gears are going to be a tad more expensive to replace than other standard gears available.

On the flip side new slipper clutch should be much more durable over the life of the RC and allows spurs to be changed easily WITHOUT changing or altering slipper settings. Unscrew three spur bolts, remove spur, install new spur - done all without touching the slipper. This is a huge deal as the old slipper was a complete pain to tune properly and once set you didn't want to tear it all apart to swap out a different sized spur gear for track tuning. Further the Revo inspired slipper is much easier to actually tune. Thank you Traxxas.

Aluminum Idler Gear
Did Traxxas deliver? Kind off the new Idler gear is black and seems to be tougher. I hope the durability is improved in some way that their marketing department missed (unlikely), this is still an ongoing issue. Although this is a easy and simply upgrade, I believe this is an issue which will start to rear it's ugly head as the stress of the higher output motor and ESC is delivered through the transmission. I blew my idler with a Trinity15T Titanite, the new 12T 550 motor looks to have about the same power and certainly the torque so I would expect a rash of broken idler gears in the next six months. My guess is the 7-8 cell bashers will need this replacement quickly.

Should this happen, the $10 aluminum idler gear upgrade will take about an hour and all will be forever well after that upgrade. I just think this should have been part of the Stampede and Rustler update upfront. Personally I would do the upgrade before I put one hour on either RC, because picking pieces of a blown gear out of your tranny and then cleaning it to a surgical level is not fun.

5x11 Bearing and Carriers
Did Traxxas deliver? No

My speculation why Traxxas passed on this upgrade was simply due to expense. This upgrade would have easily pushed the price of the new R/Cs well over a $200 street price and easily added $30-$50 to the price of the units. Although some would argue otherwise, full bearings and carriers would have been nice, they were not really a required upgrade for this class of RC. I think Traxxas would have been pushing the intended price point of these new models past what most people are willing to pay for a starter RC.

Stuff is getting competitive in this category - time for bearings Traxxas.

Wide Conversion
Did Traxxas deliver? No

I have some mixed feelings on why Traxxas didn't widen out the Rustler and Stampede. On one side I really think it is nuts that Traxxas have different front and rear wheel offsets and the screwball front wheels. This just makes wheel buying and tire rotation a pain. I personally along with tons of other folks swear by the wide-pede/wide-rusty conversions, however that doesn't necessarily make it the right thing to do for everyone. On the other side of the argument, doing a proper wide conversion and designing it correctly into the whole RC would have entailed more than a simple update than Traxxas provided on this go around. Still some new extended front arms would have been all that would have been required and...hint... would be a great upgrade part.

Stiffer Chassis
Did Traxxas deliver? Yes

Contoured identical to the old chassis the new gray is an upgrade all be it slight. Stepping into the voodoo that is plastic chemistry, Traxxas is using a new graphite impregnated material that is harder, stronger and marginally lighter than the old black stuff. Although not immediately noticeable, the chassis is also stiffer when flexed than the old black chassis. Don't argue with the chemists - it's better and it's gray.

Better Shocks
Did Traxxas deliver? Yes

The Ultra-Shocks are back and now new and improved with X-Ring seals and made from the newer, supposedly more durable, gray plastic composite material. The X-Ring seals promise, longer life, a better seal, and lower friction than traditional O-ring seals. The new springs aside from color remain unchanged, although some have said the front springs are a little lighter on the Rustler (I didn't find that when comparing my buddies' R/Cs to my stock springs). They looked like the same length and weight as the old versions and are still too hard to provide a full range of adjustment. On the Stampede that harder spring rate is fine, because almost everyone is going up in height not down. On the Rustler it's and issue. Without adding any spring pre-load spacers the springs still run the arms a wee bit too high so if you are really serious about competing with the Rustler, I would suggest picking up a couple sets of softer springs to play around with. Not that we all have the new super light and high output LiPo batteries out such as the one's in one in my buddies Rustler, the ride height is just a little to high and the need for softer springs is apparent.

Lighter Overall Weight
Did Traxxas deliver? Kind of.

Most of the components have either gone down in weight or are the same, however the new motor and ESC tip the scale to slightly heavier R/Cs than last year. I personally think the weight increase was worth it, new ESC, motor, motor mount, heavier servo, and tires and wheels, all great things that are worth the extra ounces and will more than make up for the weight with enormous performance increases.

On the Rustler - Make it an E-Jato and for the Stampede - Make it like an E-SportMaxx
Did Traxxas deliver? Kind of and kind of not. I think we were all hoping for a complete top to bottom redo of both trucks where we would see the Rustler receive a super high performance chassis and steering system and the Stampede get a little wider, meatier looking, and have the option for even a drop in 4 wheel drive kit.

Overall I think the Stampede seemed to make the biggest change toward meeting expectations simply because it has less of a distance to go than the Rustler. On the Stampede you accept the limitations of direct servo steering and the chassis as the trade off of amazing bashing durability. The design goals were to simply tweak a great design. I think that Traxxas really missed the boat with not doing a wide conversion and really should have been an update on this version of the Stampede. This would have simply required two new molds for front arms and would have guaranteed ancillary sales of everyone upgrading the vintage Rustler and Stampedes with this easy upgrade part.

On the Rustler there was a little further to go. We have seen three generations of better steering linkage systems, huge leaps in chassis design, wheels, transmission designs, and overall looks come to market. This was a lot to expect and are pretty lofty goals for a sub $200 RC. We now have a better chassis material, wheels and tires, slipper, and even cutting edge brushed power. Big updates but still a long way from the cutting edge engineering of the Jato.

My Take on the Upgrades
The designers and engineers at Traxxas can only do so much while maintaining a reasonable price point. Overall Traxxas took a giant leap forward on performance that actually makes the Stampede and Rustlers pretty impressive 1/10 scale R/Cs. Upgrades cost money and there is no way around that material fact. Would we have liked it better with this upgrade and some additional that, absolutely, however we would have been looking at a whole different price point on these new Traxxas rigs instead of sub-$200 prices.

If you buy a new Xl-5 Stampede or Rustler will you still feel compelled to upgrade? With the new upgrades, the answer is yes but without as much urgency as the older units. The last round required...no mandated, an almost immediate upgrade to a better ESC and motor - that big upgrade already done upgrades are not as pressing. Personally, if I was to suddenly come into possession of one of these new units (hint to the Traxxas marketing department as your number one and highest visited Stampede and Rustler resource), aside from my personal little tweaks, I think an RPM bumper and the bearings and carriers upgrade would be about it for a while until wore out a couple sets of tires. It used to be that a stock Stampede or Rustler would literally get eaten alive right out of the box, with these new versions that has changed. These new Traxxas R/Cs are back on the top of the heap with loads of top speed, power, and performance and will do a fair job holding their own in all but the most competitive environments and engagements. Also with the Training Mode on the ESC, this is truly a long-term RC that a newbie or youngster can grow into for a long time to come all while giving the more advanced driver in the house plenty of excitement in regular modes all from one RC.

Grumbles aside I think, Traxxas has done a great job on this go around, although I might request the NEXT revision not take another 10-15 years.

Is the Stampede Track/Race Worthy?

Is the Stampede Track/Race Worthy?

This has been a huge topic of discussion on the Traxxas Forums, on both the Rustler and Stampede posts, that I though I would expound on it a bit.

A post from Midge - Monster.Traxxas.com
"The more I read on places other than the Traxxas forums, the more I hear about stampede's and rustler's simply not cutting it on the local track. Don't get me wrong, even if this is true, I have absolutely no regrets about getting a stampede as my first car. The availability of Traxxas parts, the help I receive on this forum every day, and other great things about Traxxas made it the right choice for me. I just wanted to know, is there truth behind these rumors? As far as electrics go, I honestly do not see that huge a difference in performance as far as the base of the car goes. I was under the assumption that two 2wd's with similar components will perform similarly, is this not true? Do people just say it because some of the stock components are sub par? Just interested to see what some of you think."


My Response

When I was looking at getting "back" into RC when I purchased my Stampede, there were three types of RC design categories - 1. Race specific, 2. Race Oriented 3. Fun Durable Project R/Cs.

The Rustler falls into category #2, and the Stampede into #3.

Although it is possible to get the Stampede and Rustler into category #1, you are pushing the limits of the car and the design, keeping in mind those cars designed for that category are already that much ahead of the Stampede and Rustler right out of the box. From and inverse perspective, taking a car from category #1 and attempting the absolute idiotic behavior we all do with the Stampede (and or Rustler) would be an expensive experiment in breaking plastic.

Traxxas makes great trucks, very durable trucks, easy to maintain trucks, but durable and easy to maintain does not typically equate to a really light, and a set it and forget it track winning race RC. Pick you battles. For example - I focused on Shear Durability (on this site StampedeProject.com), Jang focused on Racing, Swami on Speed, Mis-Behavin on documenting the heck out of everything as well as some great upgrades. It's hard to take a potato and make it an orange so I have some great respect for those people like Jang and Swami who can and do make it happen.

Learn to drive. I was just at a huge regional event here in Omaha for indoor racing and these guys were incredible... no they were astounding drivers. I watched for almost an hour and didn't see one barrier hit, not one missed turn, about 50 racers running on a track at 30-40 MPH like slot cars - AMAZING

From my experience driving is the key more than anything else. Timmy with 6 months of experience who's daddy just bought hit the latest greatest "whatever" with blah blah blah upgrades will get blown away by a seasoned R/C'er on the track running some Frankenstein looking bashing RC and man is it embarrassing - I have seen it happen over and over and it isn't pretty.

Learn to drive.
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More on the Topic
Learning to drive on the track, not hitting anything, taking turns efficiently, and picking a good driving line and be able to do it consistently over and over again is how to beat others on the track. Racing and winning is 95% or more driving skill and only 5% the car. My example above is referencing that fact that so many people believe that just by buying Z brand of RC that it makes them a better R/C'er than someone else with X brand. What makes a great R/C'er is practice, patience, and skill.

The Stampede is capable of being a race placing competitor with the right tires, suspension tweaks and maybe even moving under-mounting the battery such as Jang's famous Stampede on UltimateRC.com, but most importantly only if you know how to drive it. Additionally, I believe that if you learn the skill to tune the Stampede to be competitive, once you have the driving skill you will be a tweaking master with a higher end race oriented R/Cs. Learn to drive and you will win.

FAQs on the Traxxas Stampede, Rustler, and Bandit.

FAQs on the Traxxas Stampede, Rustler, and Bandit.

Which should I buy the Stampede, Rustler, or Bandit?

All three models share the vast majority of their parts with the exception of body, chassis, and tires so even if you "pick the wrong one, you can easily convert it to the other with about $50 in parts (although I would just buy an additional RC). The Rustler and Bandit are almost identical with the exception of tires and bodywork so converting a bandit to Rustler and vise versa takes a body and wheel swap and a spur gear change.

If you desire to be a professional track racer or at least spend some quality time at the track cutting your teeth on racing, go buy a Traxxas Rustler or Bandit there is no better starter trucks than a Traxxas Rustler for the beginner racer. If you want to just have fun, jumping, bashing, and in general running amuck in your neighborhood and grassy areas of your yard, the Stampede is your RC. Sure the Rustler will do this but will require big wheels being added like Moabs or Masher 2000 added and a spur gear change to have the same abilities as the Stampede. I also believe the Stampede chassis to be much more suited to handle extreme abuse more so than the Rustler/Bandit chassis. Whatever your decision buy the RPM Wide Bumper right away for either, this must have $5 upgrade will save you the pain, agony and cost of replacing front end components.

Whether you just like to terrorize the neighborhood or are a seasoned RC veteran, the Stampede, Rustler, and Bandit are durable, low maintenance RC trucks that provides tons of fun in stock and modified forms all at a price that is hard to beat.

What length should me antenna be?
The stock replacement length is 22 3/4"-"23 measured from the edge of the receiver. Adjust accordingly.

What is the lowest turn motor I can gear properly for the Stampede/Rustler/Bandit?
With the stock MSC and old stock XL-1 ESC the limit is 17 turns, however with a higher performance ESC you could go as low as a 14 turn motor without having problems properly gearing the new motor. Almost any brushless motor will work as the power of the brushless motors makes all by the lowest turn brushless motors very gear-able in the Stampede, Rustler, and Bandit and work on a different set of rules and can be geared appropriately regardless of their specified "turn". The new 2006 XL-5 can handle 15 Turn regular 540 sized motors and 12 Turn larger Maxx sized 550 Motors.

What are the some of the standard modifications most people make to hop up their Stampede/Rustler/Bandit - yes for the most part even the new 2006 models?

Below is a list of some common modifications that can increase durability, speed, and your overall enjoyment of the your RC.

  • RPM Bumper - $5 (a must have item, if you buy nothing else, buy this)

  • Washer backed motor mount - $0-5 for parts

  • Make it easy, measure you antenna length and write it with a permanent marker on the receiver or better yet on a piece of paper and put it inside the receiver. That way if you shear off an antenna (and you will), you can just cut a new one and re-attach it. You will thank me later.

  • Traxxas Aluminum Shock Caps - $10 (Once on - never had a problem)

  • Shock Strengthening - Add two Silicon O rings per shock to gently limit shock over travel - $0-5 for parts (insurance against breakage)

  • RPM Gear Cover - $5 (insurance against breakage)

  • Floppy Antenna Fix with shrink wrap or electrical tape - $0 (Fixes an annoyance and protects antenna)

  • Aired Tires - $0 (better performance & traction)

  • CA Glue tires/rims - $5 (better traction - less tire to rim spin under torque)

  • Adjustable front camber links - $10 (corrects camber alignment issues)

  • RPM 5X11 Bearing carriers and stainless steel sealed bearings - $30 (more spin)

  • Various Pinion/Spur gears - $25

  • Differential Repack with heavy grease - $2 (like a limited slip differential.)

  • Converted pivot screw on rear shock to a pivot ball - performance and durability

  • Replace stock front shock tower with a Nitro Rustler Front Shock Tower

  • Traxxas aluminum idler gear - you Will break the plastic idler, everyone does, but will probably never have another transmission problem after replacing the idler gear with aluminum I never have will the exception of a differential replacement.

  • All power connectors upgraded to Deans Plugs or Power Poles - $20 (More Power!)

  • All power wires upgraded to Deans or equivalent 12 Gauge Wire - $5 (More Power!)

  • A higher performance ESC and motor - the stock 2006 model is pretty good already.

  • Wide-pede conversion - performance and stability.

  • Aftermarket tires - performance and durability - the stock 2006 are really very good.

  • RPM Lower shock cups - Longer, deeper, and stronger than stock - less likely to break or pop off.

  • Custom lightened chassis - $0 (Shaved weight but it took time and patience)

  • Lowered/Shaved body mounts to lower body. - $0 (Dremel-ed them down for a lower look)

  • Suspension Kingpin e-clip upgrade (insurance against breakage)

Is the XL-1 a good ESC (electronic speed control)?

The XL-1 is a great ESC to get you going in the hobby. The second part of the answer is that Traxxas has attempted to provide a good quality ESC affordably and as such it may not compare with as many features, have as much power, or as low a motor turn limit as other speed controls available which can cost significantly more. As your skills increase, you may want to add a more feature rich and more powerful speed control which can accommodate lower turn limit more powerful motors OR go directly to a brushless system which will put you money ahead in the long run.

Is the new XL-5 a good ESC (electronic speed control)?

The XL-5 is a very nice ESC and should provide you with everything you need from and ESC until you move to a brushless system - which by the way should be your next move from a cost efficiency perspective.

How should I gear my Stampede, Rustler or Bandit?

The pre-2006 models come geared stock at 78/18 Bandit, 84/18 Rustler, and 87/18 Stampede. The general rule is to run a stock sized spur (the big gear) with 2 teeth less for the pinion (the small gear) than the Turns of the motor. So let's say you pick up a Trinity Pro-Amber 17T or a new SV2 17T, you should probably gear at 15/87 on the Stampede as an example.

On the new 2006 models the spurs are available in 76, 83, 86, and 90 tooth sizes with the 86 being stock. The new pinions from Traxxas range from 18, 19, 23, to 25 teeth.

The 5 Second Rule applies to gearing where if you can hold your finger on the motor for more than 5 seconds the gearing is fine. If not your need to go down one or a couple teeth on the pinion until you find the point where the motors operating temperature runs cool enough to pass the 5 Second Rule.

Go Fast Cheap High Speed and Short Run Times...they are related.

Go Fast Cheap
High Speed and Short Run Times...they are related.

So you are either too cheap or cash strapped to buy one of the Castle Creations Mamba Max 5700 brushless systems, but still want to go really fast with your brushed motors. OK but this will take some work, tweaking and there are some pretty significant compromises. With this setup it is for one purpose and one purpose only, going really fast on the road. Additionally, your run times will be about 2 minutes, you batteries and motor may become extremely hot, and off-road use will be non-existent. ...And yes you could seriously damage lots of stuff in the process - consider yourself warned. It worked for me but as I make no warranties to this build.

It goes without saying that I have at least 10 or so ideas bouncing around in my head at any one time - some good and some down right stupid. This was one idea that has some merit.

The thing is I am sick and tired of everyone saying you can�t make a Stampede go over X MPH with anything other than a brushless setup or you can�t severely over gear the Stampede, or you can�t use this or that motor because you can�t gear it properly, this is just wrong.

Yes, under typical situations those statements are correct and a 14 turn motor is the lowest gear-able motor, but you can make a lower turn motor work with the right �tuning�. The notion of �can�t� (gear, motor, or MPH) is contrary to every piece of proven physics and science available. Transmissions, gearing, clutches were all designed to make cars faster, torque-ier, more efficient all with less power. They have 81 MPH bicyclist, not even 1 HP and 81 MPH ...makes you think.

After looking at a motorcycle wet clutch system and hydrostatic systems (I will let you look up how they work), I began to think, if I really loosened my slipper clutch (with dif balls installed) to the point that it would let�s say be tight enough to just get the Stampede moving it would in theory prevent damage to the battery, esc, and motor from severe over gearing. In theory, it wouldn�t fully lock up until about 20-30MPH. It would start to slip as soon as more torque (slower speeds) are required or obstacles encountered, and slip less when more HP (top speed) is needed and as the speed increases. This is not a wheel popping or even decently accelerating setup rather a high-speed only vehicle setup.

Always keep in mind that a slipper clutch has three basic settings and only two purposes. Setting #1 is very loose, #2 is set to slip a little to protect the transmission, #3 is cranked all the way down (like most of us do) and provides little, or no, transmission protection, and performs as a fixed gear retainer (and of course produces those wonderful wheelies). The two actual purposes are to either to protect the transmission with limited slip OR act as more of a centrifugal clutch to control and smooth torque and power transfer between the motor and the transmission. Many race winners know that a looser clutch can be the secret for smooth power output. My setup is way on the far end of the second purpose and slips like crazy. I WANT TO STRESS DO NOT OVER GEAR WITH A LIMITED SLIP OR LOCKED SLIPPER THIS WILL BE VERY BAD.

In a VERY simplistic way this is exactly how a hydrostatic transmission or wet clutch works, the motor runs in its higher RPM all the way through the speed range. At a higher RPM the speed of the motor approaches or matches the speed of the transmission shaft and at that point operates as if it was hard geared such as how we typically operate our Stampedes (with the slipper clutch cranked down).

So what did I do with this new found knowledge, I installed a Titanite 15T motor with 32T pinion and 87T spur, tightened the slipper clutch just to the point where it would move the Pede up a small incline and headed to the road. What happened was amazing. The clutch did exactly what it was supposed to do, slipped less and less until about 35+MPH and the you could hear is stop slipping and actually lifted the front end a bit and acted as though I had just shifted gears and took off even faster. I could still use the brakes, and as I slowed and sped up the whole process started again.

I ran 3, 6 cell packs through the setup geared at 32T/78T, Novak Rooster ESC, Titanite 15T, Moab Tires. The motor was no warmer than it normally is, the same with the ESC, the batteries were pretty toasty, but not hot. The down side of this really loose slipper setup is that you only get about 4-5 long runs (about 5-8 minutes) before the battery runs out of juice. After all, you are running everything at full throttle. Even ran it through the grass for a bit just to see if anything would break. Although the slipper was slipping away, the motor revved high, traversing the grass was way slower than normal but it did work.

Acceleration...is horrible! Geez i'm geared 32T/78T with a slick as snot slipper, it accelerates like a slug but the top end is amazing.